Cecilia Chiang, whose San Francisco restaurant, the Mandarin, introduced American diners in the 1960s to the richness and variety of authentic Chinese cuisine, died on Wednesday at her home in San Francisco. She was 100.
江孫芸(Cecilia Chiang)於週三在舊金山家中去世,享年100歲。上世紀60年代,她在舊金山創辦的福祿壽餐廳(Mandarin)向美國食客介紹了豐富多樣的地道中餐。
Her granddaughter Siena Chiang confirmed the death.
她的孫女江希娜(Siena Chiang)確認了她的死訊。
Ms. Chiang came to the United States from China as a daughter of wealth who had fled the Japanese during World War II, traveling nearly 700 miles on foot. Once in San Francisco, she proceeded, largely by happenstance and almost single-handedly, to bring Chinese cuisine from the chop suey and chow mein era into the more refined one of today, enticing diners with the dishes she ate growing up in her family’s converted Ming-era palace in Beijing.
江孫芸從中國來到美國之前,是一位曾在「二戰」期間徒步近700英里躲日本人的富家女。一到舊金山,她——很大程度在偶然和幾乎是一己之力的情況下——把中餐從雜碎和炒麵的時代,發展到如今更加精緻的時代,用她從小在北京一處由明朝宮殿改建的家中吃到的菜肴來吸引食客。
The Mandarin, which opened in 1962 as a 65-seat restaurant on Polk Street in the Russian Hill section and later operated on Ghirardelli Square, near Fisherman’s Wharf, offered patrons unheard-of specialties at the time, like potstickers, Chongqing-style spicy dry-shredded beef, peppery Sichuan eggplant, moo shu pork, sizzling rice soup and glacéed bananas.
福祿壽餐廳於1962年開業,當時店裡有65個座位,位於俄羅斯山街區的波爾克街,後來又搬到漁人碼頭附近的哥拉德利廣場,它供應了當時人們聞所未聞的特色菜,比如鍋貼、重慶風味的香辣牛肉乾、四川辣茄子、木須肉、鍋巴湯和拔絲香蕉。
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This was traditional Mandarin cooking, a catchall term for the dining style of the well-to-do in Beijing, where family chefs prepared local dishes as well as regional specialties from Sichuan, Shanghai and Canton.
這就是典型的福祿壽式烹飪,是對北京富庶階層用餐風格的總稱,他們的家庭廚師會製作本地菜肴,以及來自四川、上海和廣東的地方特色菜。
In a profile of Ms. Chiang in 2007, The San Francisco Chronicle wrote that her restaurant “defined upscale Chinese dining, introducing customers to Sichuan dishes like kung pao chicken and twice-cooked pork, and to refined preparations like minced squab in lettuce cups; tea-smoked duck; and beggar’s chicken, a whole bird stuffed with dried mushrooms, water chestnuts and ham and baked in clay.”
在2007年對江孫芸所做的一篇人物特寫中,《舊金山紀事報》稱她的餐廳「定義了高檔中餐,向顧客介紹了宮保雞丁和回鍋肉這樣的川菜,還用生菜乳鴿松、樟茶鴨以及填滿了冬菇、馬蹄和火腿,裹著土烤熟的叫花雞等菜肴重新定義了烹飪方法」。
1982年,福祿壽餐廳的食客與江孫芸交談。她的餐廳被認為是美國「高檔中餐的典範」。
1982年,福祿壽餐廳的食客與江孫芸交談。她的餐廳被認為是美國「高檔中餐的典範」。 Neal Boenzi/The New York Times
The restaurant became a shrine for such food-world luminaries as James Beard, Marion Cunningham and Alice Waters, who said that Ms. Chiang had done for Chinese cuisine what Julia Child had done for the cooking of France.
這家餐廳成了包括詹姆斯·比爾德(James Beard)、瑪麗昂·坎寧安(Marion Cunningham)和愛麗絲·沃特斯(Alice Waters)在內的美食界名人的勝地,他們說,江孫芸對中餐的貢獻,就像朱麗葉·查爾德(Julia Child)對法式烹飪的貢獻一樣。
That sentiment was echoed by the food magazine Saveur in 2000, when it wrote that the Mandarin had “accomplished nothing less than introducing regional Chinese cooking to America.”
美食雜誌Saveur在2000年也表達了類似的觀點,稱福祿壽「成功將中國的地方烹飪帶到了美國」。
The food scholar Paul Freedman included the Mandarin in his historical survey “Ten Restaurants That Changed America” (2016).
美食學者保羅·弗里德曼(Paul Freedman)將福祿壽列入了他的歷史考察作品《改變美國的十家餐廳(2016版)》中。
Like Mrs. Child, Ms. Chiang was not a chef, nor was she a likely candidate to run a restaurant. She was born Sun Yun near Shanghai in 1920 — the precise date is unclear — the seventh daughter in a family of nine girls and three boys. Her father, Sun Long Guang, was a French-educated railway engineer who retired at 50 to pursue reading and gardening. Her mother, Sun Shueh Yun Hui, came from a wealthy family that owned textile and flour mills. After her parents died, Sun Yun managed the businesses’ finances while still in her teens.
和查爾德(指茱莉亞·查爾德,她是一名美食家、作家與電視節目主持人——編注)一樣,江孫芸並不是廚師,看上去也不像會經營餐廳的人。她於1920年——具體日期不詳——在上海附近出生,名叫孫芸,是一個九女三子家庭的第七個女兒。她的父親孫龍光是一名曾在法國接受教育的鐵路工程師,在50歲退休後追求起閱讀和做園藝的生活。她的母親孫薛雲慧(Sun Shueh Yun Hui)來自一個開紡織廠和麵粉廠的富裕家庭。父母去世後,十幾歲的孫芸就開始管理企業財務。
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The Ming-era palace in which she grew up occupied an entire block in Beijing, where the Chiangs moved in the mid-1920s. Children were not allowed in the kitchen, but she paid close attention on trips to the food markets with her mother and listened carefully as detailed instructions were issued to the cooks.
她從小生活的明朝宮殿佔據了北京整整一個街區,他們在20世紀20年代中期搬到了這裡。孩子們是不允許進廚房的,但她和母親去菜市場的時候都很注意,並認真聽她交代廚師們的話。
After the Japanese occupied Beijing in 1939, the family’s fortunes became precarious. In early 1943, Cecilia, as she was called by her teachers at the Roman Catholic Fu Jen University, left to join relatives in Chongqing.
1939年,日本人佔領北京之後,這家人的命運變得岌岌可危。1943年初,被羅馬天主教輔仁大學的老師稱為塞西莉亞(Cecilia)的孫芸離開了北京,投奔重慶的親戚。
In her long journey, much of it by walking, she survived on a few gold coins sewed into her clothes, her only assets after Japanese soldiers had stolen her suitcase.
她漫長旅途的大部分時間都是步行,靠縫在衣服裡的幾塊金元生存下來,日本兵偷走她的行李箱之後,這是她僅剩的財產。
In Chongqing she found part-time work as a teacher of Mandarin at the American and Soviet embassies. She also met and married Chiang Liang, whom she had known as an economics professor at Fu Jen University and who was by then a tobacco company executive.
在重慶,她找到了一份兼職工作,在美國和蘇聯的使館教普通話。她還遇到了在輔仁大學認識的經濟學教授江梁,並嫁給了他,當時江梁是一家煙草公司的高管。
The couple moved to Shanghai after the war. In 1949, when Communist forces were poised to take over China, Mr. Chiang was offered a diplomatic post in Tokyo at the Nationalist Chinese Mission.
戰後,這對夫婦搬到了上海。1949年,當共產黨軍隊準備接管中國時,國民黨駐東京大使館向江梁提供了一個外交職位。
Two years after arriving in Tokyo, Ms. Chiang opened a Chinese restaurant there, the Forbidden City, with a group of friends. It was an instant success, attracting Chinese expatriates and Japanese diners as well.
在東京居住兩年後,江孫芸和一群朋友在當地開了家紫禁城餐廳(Forbidden City)。這家餐廳迅速獲得成功,吸引了華僑和日本食客。
2014年的江孫芸。福祿壽餐廳經營初期遇到很多困難。由於人手不足,她得自己擦洗廚房地板。
2014年的江孫芸。福祿壽餐廳經營初期遇到很多困難。由於人手不足,她得自己擦洗廚房地板。 Eric Risberg/Associated Press
Ms. Chiang sailed to San Francisco in 1960 to help her sister Sun, whose husband had just died. There she met two Chinese acquaintances from Tokyo, women who had recently emigrated to the United States and who wanted to open a restaurant. Ms. Chiang agreed to put up $10,000 as a deposit on a store they had found, on Polk Street, far from the city’s Chinatown.
1960年,江孫芸乘船前往舊金山,幫助丈夫剛去世的姐姐。在那裡,她遇到了兩位從東京來的中國熟人,她們最近移民到美國,想開一家餐廳。江孫芸同意拿出1萬美元,作為她們在波爾克街找到的一家商鋪的定金,那裡距離唐人街很遠。
When the two women backed out, Ms. Chiang found to her horror that the deposit was not refundable. She took a deep breath and decided to open the restaurant herself rather than tell her husband that she had lost the money.
當那兩位女性退出合夥後,江孫芸才驚慌地發現定金是不能退還的。她深吸了一口氣,決定自己開餐廳,而不是告訴丈夫她把錢弄沒了。
“I began to think that if I could create a restaurant with Western-style service and ambience and the dishes that I was most familiar with — the delicious food of northern China — maybe my little restaurant would succeed,” she wrote in the second of her two cookbook memoirs, “The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco” (2007, written with Lisa Weiss). The first was “The Mandarin Way” (1974, with Allan Carr).
「我開始想,如果能創建一個擁有西式服務和氛圍,還有我最熟悉的菜肴——中國北方的美食——的餐廳,也許我的小餐館會成功,」她在自己兩本烹飪回憶錄的第二部《七女:我從北京到舊金山的美食之旅》(「The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco」,2007年出版,與莉薩·韋斯[Lisa Weiss]合著)中寫道。她的第一本書是《福祿壽之道》(「The Mandarin Way」,1974年出版,與阿蘭·卡爾[Allan Carr]合著)。
江孫芸兩本烹飪回憶錄的第二部,於2007年出版。
江孫芸兩本烹飪回憶錄的第二部,於2007年出版。
Through a newspaper ad, Ms. Chiang found two talented chefs, a married couple from Shandong, and in no time the restaurant was up and running. The early days were difficult. Local suppliers, who all spoke Cantonese, refused to deliver to the Mandarin and would not extend credit. The menu, with 200 dishes, was unmanageable. Ms. Chiang, short on help, scrubbed the kitchen floors herself.
通過報刊廣告,江孫芸找到了兩位才華橫溢的廚師,是一對來自山東的夫婦,餐廳很快就開起來了。初期的日子很艱難。當地的供應商都說粵語,他們拒絕為福祿壽送貨,也不願提供貸款。多達200道菜的菜單也很難處理。由於人手不足,江孫芸得自己擦洗廚房的地板。
But little by little, Chinese diners, and a few Americans, came regularly for hot and sour soup and pan-fried potstickers. One evening, Herb Caen, the popular columnist for The Chronicle, dined at the restaurant. In a subsequent column, he called it “a little hole-in-the wall” that was serving “some of the best Chinese food east of the Pacific.”
但漸漸地,中國食客和一些美國人開始定期來這裡吃酸辣湯和煎鍋貼。一天晚上,紀事報頗受歡迎的專欄作家赫伯·卡恩(Herb Caen)來到這家餐廳用餐。在隨後的一篇專欄裡,他稱這家「小館子」提供「太平洋東岸最美味的一些中餐」。
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Overnight the tables filled. Lines formed outside the door. The Mandarin was on its way. In 1968, Ms. Chiang moved the restaurant to larger quarters on Ghirardelli Square, where she could accommodate 300 diners and offer cooking classes.
一夜之間,餐廳滿座。門外排起了長隊。福祿壽火了。1968年,江孫芸將餐廳搬到了哥拉德利廣場一處更大的店面,可以容納300位食客,還提供烹飪課程。
In 1975 she opened a second Mandarin, in Beverly Hills, Calif. She sold it to her son, Philip, in 1989. He later helped create the P.F. Chang’s restaurant chain. He survives her, as do her daughter, May Ongbhaibulya; three granddaughters; and three great-grandchildren.
1975年,她在加州貝弗利山開了第二家福祿壽餐廳。1989年,她把這家店賣給了兒子江一帆(Philip)。後來,他幫助創建了華館(P.F. Chang)連鎖餐廳。江一帆和江孫芸之女梅·昂貝布裡亞(May Ongbhaibulya)仍然健在;江孫芸有三個孫女;以及三個曾孫輩。
Ms. Chiang sold the original Mandarin in 1991. It closed in 2006.
1991年,江孫芸賣掉了第一家福祿壽餐廳。它於2006年停業。
Ms. Chiang continued to work as a restaurant consultant into her 90s. The director Wayne Wang made a documentary about her, “Soul of a Banquet,” which was released in 2014, and in 2016 the San Diego PBS station KPBS broadcast a six-part series, “The Kitchen Wisdom of Cecilia Chiang.”
江孫芸90多歲時仍繼續擔任餐廳顧問。導演王穎拍攝了一部關於她的紀錄片《筵席的藝術》(Soul of a Banquet),於2014年上映。2016年,聖地亞哥PBS電視台KPBS播出了一部六集系列片,《江孫芸的的廚房智慧》(The Kitchen Wisdom of Cecilia Chiang)。
“I think I changed what average people know about Chinese food,” Mrs. Chiang told The Chronicle in 2007. “They didn’t know China was such a big country.”
「我想我改變了普通人對中餐的認知,」江孫芸在2007年對紀事報說。「他們都不知道中國是個那麼大的國家。」